We turn to food when we celebrate, grieve or seek comfort; it feeds memories and preserves nostalgia. Fatima Saib beautifully captures that and more in her debut cookbook, The Hungry Table, as she gives home cooks a glimpse into her fondest memories and the food featured throughout. As much as it’s an homage to her Indian heritage, it’s also a memoir of her late father, her life and her love for food.

The Hungry Table

From Saffron Almond Curry to Chicken Koftas to Rasmalai, Fatima shares recipes she plates on weeknights, weekends and festive occasions like Eid. You can’t box them into one category; it’s a collection of ‘Saib specials’ and everything in between.

With each anecdote and fragrant recipe, she invites home cooks to take a seat at ‘The Hungry Table’ and savour special moments. Her guide to pantry basics and chapters titled ‘Fast’ and ‘Relaxed’ make it easy to find food to match your mood, with comfort and togetherness at the heart of it all. We chat with Fatima about the inspiration behind The Hungry Table, the importance of documenting recipes for future generations, and her favourite recipes from her cookbook. Join the conversation.

The Hungry Table is both a cookbook and a memoir; why did you want to make that distinction?

Writing a cookbook has been a dream of mine for a very long time, but even so, I was adamant that when I would finally write my book, it wouldn’t just be recipes – it would encompass stories about my childhood, my father and food memories that were important to me. When I read a recipe, I always want to understand how the cook came up with it and know the story behind it, which is why so many of my recipes have stories connected to them. I firmly believe that food is one of the most powerful things to connect us, and that is done through food stories and the memories and flavours associated with certain dishes.

There’s a common thread in the book, your father. Did you know that this would be the heart of the book?

Yes – I don’t think I would have written a book if I couldn’t have him in the forefront. My memories with him, specifically around food, are so few and yet they are some of the most precious memories of my life. Even though he wasn’t a cook, the way he responded to food and the immense respect he had for food should be a lesson to us all.

Why ‘The Hungry Table’?

The title of the book was my husband’s idea, which came about one night as we were brainstorming names for my podcast. The name is so perfect as it has now turned into the perfect platform for everyone to come hungry and leave fulfilled and nourished, whether that be via the podcast, my social media [feed] or the book.

You recite anecdotes which happened years ago as if they happened yesterday. What helped keep those memories alive?

Thank you! It was very important for me to try and keep those memories alive as much as possible – most of them have been living on scraps of paper stashed between pages of my journals or other cookbooks. However, one thing that has helped enormously in recounting those memories was tasting or smelling the foods that are associated with them. Smell and memory are inextricably linked, so that became a natural part of the writing process.

Some of your favourite family recipes were not documented. Does this book hold any significance for you in that regard?

It is my hope that this book will become something that is passed from generation to generation, and I do think that missing those recipes from my father’s side of the family plays a big role in that. I am so anxious to try and document everything in fear of losing those dishes. However, I recently got some recipes from his family for some of the things we ate when visiting them during the summertime in Durban, and it has made me so emotional to recreate them at home and taste the memories of my childhood.

How do you tread between keeping recipes authentic and putting your own spin on them to make them a ‘Saib special’? 

I love that phrase, a ‘Saib special’! I tried to keep them as authentic as I could, but there had to be some changes to suit both my and my family’s lifestyle. For instance, with the Saffron Almond Curry, I use red pepper instead of tomato due to a [shared] tomato sensitivity and I use nuts to thicken the sauce [instead of cream], which is a great substitute when someone is lactose intolerant. The biryani can also be made with a hack that I love to share, which is to simply buy your fried onions at your closest Indian grocery or halaal butchery.

I wanted to take the stress out of making these dishes, as they get a bad reputation for being high-effort. Yes – they can take some time to cook, but as long as your prep work is out of the way, the rest is easy!

What was the most challenging part of finishing this book?

To be quite honest, writing and publishing this book was the easiest thing I have ever done. I had so much fun putting it together and seeing all of the stories come to life, and I believe it’s because this is something I’ve wanted for so long. The hardest part was actually seeing it go out to the public. It was surreal that a part of me would be out into the world, but thus far, the feedback has been nothing short of amazing, which I am very thankful for.

The book features Indian staples, but also recipes like Hot Honey Chicken Burgers. How did you decide what would make the cut?

The book is a combination of Indian and modern cooking, and I felt it was important to not put the book into a box too much. I wanted it to be a reflection of the things that I actually eat and enjoy making, while still sharing the kinds of food that I grew up eating like trotters and sago food (which isn’t authentically Indian).

Favourite recipe from the cookbook, and why?

The Hot Honey Fried Chicken is a firm favourite, and everyone who goes through the book always stops on that page and goes ‘Ooooh!’ It’s also the most made recipe from my book to date, which is a testament to how good it is. The first time I made it, my husband and I ate it for three days straight – it is such a winning recipe!

What’s been the highlight of this journey?

Every step of the process has been a highlight, from the first meeting with Penguin [Books] to signing the contract and submitting the book to finally seeing a physical copy. It’s so hard to choose a single moment, but I must admit that I thoroughly enjoy hearing all the feedback and seeing the kinds of recipes people cook first.

Drinking tea is part of your cooking ritual; it’s one of the first recipes you share. Do you have any other rituals?

The tea is the main part, but recently – and I do admit that this is quite funny – my cats have become very interested in cooking and both of them sit on a chair in the kitchen the moment they hear the stove go on. They watch every step of the process, and it now feels strange to cook without them watching. It’s quite funny watching their eyes water when I chop onions, but they refuse to leave until the meal is completed.

You love gardening; what’s growing in your backyard?

So many things and my garden is super tiny! Everything is in pots and bags.

Currently, I have Apache potatoes, blueberries, lettuce, spinach, a finger lime tree, a lemon tree, an olive tree, spring onion, red onion, sorrel, celeriac, spearmint, mint, a granadilla vine, lemongrass (perfect for tea); and a few other plants like black violas, two pots of Ranunculus and a few cacti.

Current food obsession?

I love a good burger – it’s always been my obsession! My husband also started making homemade pasta, which has been such a treat.

Non-negotiables in your spice rack?

Gosh! Are you sure you want this answer?

There are so many and, yes, they are all non-negotiable: cinnamon, cumin (ground and seeds), coriander (ground and seeds), green cardamom pods, cloves, saffron, mustard seeds, curry leaves (I think this counts), my homemade garam masala mix and Maldon sea salt.

Your hardest working pantry staple?

Coconut cream – I use it for everything! From curries and marinades to rice, and even in a cup of rooibos tea; coconut cream is such a wonderful, multitasking item.

Where can fellow foodies find your book?

The Hungry Table is available in all bookstores and online on Takealot.

Chicken Kofta Curry

“When I was younger, I would spend a lot of time at my cousin Fawzia’s house, and one of my favourite times of the day was lunch… One Saturday, about 11 years ago… she brought out a pot, wafting with the most delicious smells. Immediately, my mouth began to water and with an elegance that matched the dish, she presented this chicken kofta. I remember going home and telling my family I had the best chicken koftas at Fawzia’s house and, to be honest, it is still one of the best food memories I have from my childhood.”  

Serves: 6 | Total time: 50 minutes

For the chicken koftas

500g chicken mince
1 tsp dried chilli flakes
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp butter, melted
1 tsp garlic and ginger paste
1 cup breadcrumbs
1 egg
2 Tbsp chopped fresh coriander
½ red onion, finely chopped

For the butter sauce

2 Tbsp ghee
3 medium onions, sliced
2 tsp minced garlic
2 tsp minced ginger
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp salt
2 Tbsp brown sugar
1 Tbsp ground cumin
1 Tbsp ground coriander
1 tsp cayenne pepper
1¾ cups plain yoghurt
2 Tbsp tomato paste
½ cup fresh cream
Fresh coriander, to serve
Dried red chillies, to serve (optional)

To Make the Chicken Koftas & Butter Sauce

To make the chicken koftas, add all the ingredients to a bowl and mix well to combine. Shape into balls just smaller than a golf ball and refrigerate, covered, while you make the sauce. You should get about 30 balls from the mixture.

In the meantime, make the butter sauce. Place a pot or pan with a lid over medium heat and add the ghee and onions. Braise the onions until golden brown, about 10–15 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients, except the cream and coriander, and cook until the sauce has slightly thickened, about 10 minutes.

Add the chicken koftas, cover the pot with the lid and cook for 10–15 minutes. Pour over the cream and gently stir to mix into the sauce, being careful not to break the koftas. Cook for a further 5 minutes. Top with fresh coriander and dried red chillies, if you like, and serve with roti or poppadums.

Burfee Fudge

“Fudge was one of my bestsellers when I still had my home-based baking business, Saib’s Kitchen. I’ve since experimented with lots of different flavour combinations and this one in particular was a firm favourite with many – especially around Eid time!” 

Makes: 20 pieces  | Total time: 20 minutes, plus refrigeration

Ingredients

240g white chocolate
1 Tbsp butter
½ tin (192g) condensed milk
½ tsp ground cardamom, plus extra to decorate
1 tsp rosewater
¼ cup mini marshmallows, plus extra to decorate (optional)
Food-grade rose petals, crushed (optional)
Grated white chocolate, to decorate (optional)

To Make the Burfee Fudge

Melt the white chocolate and butter together over a double boiler, stirring every few minutes, making sure the water does not touch the base of the bowl. Once melted, add the condensed milk, ground cardamom and rosewater, and give it a good stir until it starts to come together and look very glossy. Remove from the heat.

At this point, you can add any extra ingredients you like. I added a handful of mini marshmallows (be quick, as they melt, and you want them to retain their shape for some texture and colour), and crushed rose petals before quickly pouring the mixture into a 20cm square tin lined with baking paper. Sprinkle with ground cardamom and crushed rose petals, and gently press in some more marshmallows (if you like) before transferring to the fridge for 2 hours to chill. Top with some grated white chocolate, then slice as desired and serve.

Follow Fatima on Instagram. For more recipes from The Hungry Table, order your copy.