In the world of fashion, time moves at the speed of light, and trends change at the flick of a switch. But, as sustainability takes centre stage, designers and consumers have started to embrace a slower pace. From upcycling preloved garments to resurrecting hidden wardrobe gems, people are reinventing personal style through the lens of eco-conscious slow fashion. One trend that’s caught the attention of many involves using plant-based and indigenous ingredients as natural dyes to breathe new life into old garments.

The Allure of Natural Dyes

As much as fashion trends change, they also make comebacks; we’ve seen it with Bell-bottoms, midriffs, pantsuits, and now, natural dyes.

In the ’60s and ’70s, tie dye was a major art form – many think it originated during the Hippie Movement, but it actually existed long before. According to Madi Apparel, “the colourful history of tie dye can be linked back to ancient Asia, during the T’ang Dynasty between 618 and 906 C.E.” – except, they used natural dyes instead of the synthetic kind.

What Are Natural Dyes?

Natural dyes are derived from plant-based sources, insects, or mineral sources.

Besides environmental factors, these are some of the reasons designers and consumers have shifted from using synthetic dyes…

• Health and Well-being: Natural dyes are biodegradable. Unlike synthetic dyes, natural dyes don’t contain toxic chemicals that can cause skin allergies or other health issues.
• Cultural and Artistic Value: Using plant-based dyes connects modern fashion with age-old traditions, adding cultural and artistic value to garments.
• Customisable Colours: Unique, subtle shades can be produced using natural dyes, that often cannot be replicated with synthetic dyes. This uniqueness allows designers and artisans to create one-of-a-kind pieces, fostering individuality and creativity in fashion.

Why You Should Say ‘Bye’ to Synthetic Dyes

Several factors contribute to the growing popularity of natural dyes, but ecological awareness remains one of the largest motivations for sustainable huns and eco-warriors. Needless to say, fashion-forward consumers have become more aware of the environmental impact of their fashion choices.

Synthetic dyes have been linked to pollution. Furthermore, the process itself involves the use of chemicals and large quantities of water, contributing to water pollution and high energy consumption. Synthetic dye runoff contains harmful chemicals that can contaminate rivers and aquatic ecosystems, disrupting natural habitats and harming wildlife.

The production of synthetic dyes relies heavily on non-renewable resources like petroleum, contributing to resource depletion. The energy-intensive processes and chemical manufacturing required release significant carbon emissions, exacerbating climate change.

 Unlike synthetic dyes, natural dyes don’t contain toxic chemicals that can cause skin allergies or other health issues.

Something also worth considering is the type of mordant used – mordants are used to fix the dye, so that the colour doesn’t easily wash away. Typically, inorganic metal mordants are used, but since the rise of sustainable fashion, eco-friendly bio-mordants like Acacia mearnsii sawdust have proven to be considerable alternatives.

Types of Natural Dyes

Natural dyes bring a kaleidoscope of benefits. By incorporating plant-based or natural ingredients, designers and artisans can contribute to the preservation of biodiversity and the revitalisation of traditional craftsmanship. Here are some popular types of natural dyes:

Rooibos is an iconic South African plant produces a reddish-brown dye, perfect for earthy tones. Rooibos tea (Aspalathus linearis) is also known for its health benefits.

Indigo (Indigofera Tinctoria) is a classic natural dye known for its deep blue hue. South Africa has its own indigenous indigo plants, such as Indigofera patens.

Turmeric (Curcuma longa) is known for its bright and sunny yellow colour; turmeric is a readily available spice that imparts warm and vibrant hues to fabrics.

Alkanet root yields deep purples and blues, depending on the pH level of the dye bath. It’s a versatile natural dye used for various shades.

Pomegranate rinds and peels create lovely shades of yellow and soft greens. It’s an eco-friendly dye option using food waste.

Onion skins can produce warm and earthy shades, ranging from pale yellows to deep oranges. They are a sustainable and readily available option.

Hibiscus flowers can be used to create vibrant pinks and reds. The colour can be intensified by using more petals or altering the pH.

Avocado pits and skins create soft and delicate pinks and peachy tones. This dye is eco-friendly and another great way to utilise kitchen waste.

Sage leaves can create soft green and grey hues. This herb is not only a dye, but also adds a pleasant fragrance to textiles.

Lavender flowers can be used to achieve pale purple and lavender hues. Lavender-scented textiles are an added bonus.

Coffee grounds can be repurposed and used as a natural dye. Leftover coffee grounds contain natural pigments that can produce beautiful, earthy tones on fabrics.

Learn how these African designers are shining the spotlight on sustainable fashion.